Friday, February 25, 2005

je suis arrive en Auroville

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This must be short and I'll fill in more later. I am on Auroville, a planned community--a city of human unity started by The Mother (www.auroville.com). It's not an ashram but under the philosophical beliefs of the sri aurobindo ashram. It's very euro with cafes, solar run kitchens, schools. It's not completely communual but everyone's needs are taken care of as members work for Auroville in a billion of capacities. Some fo the handmade goods are really beautiful. I'm with my friend Patrick and Heidi who were some of the original settlers. The land is now a jungle of trees. I was two feet from a peacock and a mongoose ran past the front door of P and H's beatiful home that they built from ground up. I still don't quite have a handle on the city in terms of village vs aurovillians (not orwellians)

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I had a day in Pondi on my own at the ashram guesthouse. (the best deal in town) I rested in the breeze of the ocean and took a walk along the sea coast to the looming statue of Gandhi. This seems to be the spot for evening lovers to meet and cuddle. The view at the Seagull restaurant is fabulous but don't ever eat there. It's awful.

Today I went to the sea and took a swim. I hoped to get involved in Tsunami cleanup but it's pretty much done. Now, they must re-build. There are riots in South INdia ast he fisherman don't have water. These problems are not new just exacerbated by the tragedy and to some extent by all the attention and money. Tragedy and poverty is a daily event here but the west became soft hearted when a big wave gobbled up the land. Don't get me wrong, a tsunami is dramatic to say the least. And entire island was erased of its inhabitants. Boats are what the fishermen need not the box of thongs and fur coats from Europe (true story). And hard cash isn't sucha good idea. I could stay here for a long time and only sort of understand it all. Auroville requires a three month stay before one can consider living as a permanent resident. Times have changed the place and like all places , change brings good and bad. Like gentrification of urban neigborhoods.

Ok, that's the basics and more details to follow. I'm off on my mountain bike to find my way back to the jungle through unmarked dusty red roads. Thank god for my good sense of direction

And everyone speaks french. Patrick, Heidi their guests, friends. And so I have come up against my shitty french. But I've employed le technique de Niki. Smile, laugh and make it like I understand it all. ONe time I couldn't believe she could understand this auto driver till she told me "I can't. I just pretend I can." Well, I get most of what people are saying but the cross conversation loses me in total frustration that language education in America sucks. Two times in one year I've needed to use my french. Time to go back to school.

IN chennai I went to another deaf school so that story will follow.

Monday, February 21, 2005

A day at the Taj Hotel

Yesterday, Anu took me with her to work. Anu is my good friend, Kavi's friend. Kavi thought we would get along and WE DO! She is great. She is a former news broadcaster and currenty does PR for maruitius (sp?) islands. This job was mc'ing a jewlery fashion show at one of the famous Taj Hotel's. She had to read syrupy introductions to the companies before a slew of tall models strutted down the thrust, or whatever they call it in model talk. But she could read anything and it would sound gorgeous. The models were all tall, gaunt and slightly disconnected. It's that disconnect that is so alluring. Some were quite talented, yes there is a talent. And others, like the male model, needed some movement classes. He was stiff as a board. So I watched them put the whole show together and run through once. The second time I only watched a bit. Once was enough. it was cool to be a part of this creative energy rushing about to put together a show. The director was totally stressed. I relate. Anu read stuff like "a young girl becoming a woman is a moth in a crysalis that becomes a butterfly. A peacock whose plumage opens to the afternoon rain. Metha jewlerly reminds us of this great peacock." Ok, first, pick a metaphor. And enough of the alliteration. It was some really good entertainment. "Our gold is the spirit of a young girl in the arms of her mother, the summer rain on her blossoming skin."
Lunch was good though. I'm having some difficulty eating. It's the jetlag and just not being used to the spicy food. I crave vegetables. And here in the south there is alot of starch and spice. So, i'm going slowly.

Today, I lazed about. Still getting over jet lag. I went to a Deaf school to which I may return this Sunday. It was great talking with the students. The teachers are all way to into oralism for me. I learned quite a bit of sign. Very different than last year in the north. I visit one more tomorrow as well as Anu's former dance school. And as it stands now, I'll head to Auroville on Thursday. I have a very fancy bike seat to deliver to Patrick. I met Heidi and Patrick last year, you might remember "mon cherie." i just had dinner and will meet Anu at 9 pm.

This is starting to sound like one of my mother's postcards. At 1 pm I ate a bannana, at 3 pm I took a bath at 5 pm, I walked to the store. (love ya mom!)

I'm still going slow so as not to freak out my system. Things feel very familiar and yet very different. I haven't taken a photo yet. What is wrong with me!

Every night my hotel has some sort of party in the garden. Fountains, saris, lights. I've been too shy to stick my head in. perhaps tonight, while I await Anu.

Til next time! I love your emails.

Saturday, February 19, 2005

I've arrived

I've arrived after a long long plane ride. I've pretty much slept most of the day. The smells, sights have a familiarity to them. But I'm a bit ovewhelmed. My hotel often hosts weddings, so I'm hoping to catch a glimpse. Tonight there is a party and I'm not sure if it's a wedding or not...I'm going to go back across the street to my hotel to check it out. Crossing the street is more of an ordeal than flying 1/2 way across the country. My adventure begins tomorrow.

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Wednesday, February 02, 2005

Returning again

On Feb 17th I will be getting back on a plane to return to India. You can come to this blog to find updates on my trip. I hope to have as many stories, as last time, to tantalize your senses.
I hope this works. It might not and in that case I'll just send emails.

First stop is Chennai for a few days, then off to see Patrick and Heidi on Auroville who fell in love 30 years ago on a train platform in Istanbul. http://www.auroville.org/

Then I meet Javed and who knows where or what!

You can respond to me at kaganj@verizon.net