Friday, March 18, 2005

Houseboats, Pineapple and a shower under the stars.

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I did this last year and this year was equally sublime. On a posh houseboat a driver takes you through the serene channels of the Allepy backwaters. Coconut trees line the canals, people bathe and do their laundry under the relaxing breeze that brings rest and ease to the rising heat. The crew on the boat is there to serve. The meals are traditional Kerala meals of spicey white fish, bhindi (okra) slightly spiced, curd with fresh onions, fresh chappati and a tasty vegie coconut sidedish. This year my stomach was well and I could enjoy every bite.

In addtion to the the sound of the crows and the meditative putter of the boat is the chanting coming from the temple on the edge of the water. The next morning on our return, the chanting continued. I believe it went all night. The boat was anchored in a cove for the night. Black birds flew across the darkening skies fluttering to and fro the tops of the coconut trees. The stars began to appear in the sky. The sun glowed yellow as it sunk beneath the trees.

More food! Afer lunch , tea and fried bananas I wasn't really hungry but you can't pass up a deliciously spiced meal on an outdoor deck of a houseboat as the moon rises above. While lying on the bow of the boat, a star shot across the black sky.

The next morning, was another luscious meal of idly and sambar. We came back to shore around 10 am and we weren't ready to leave the life of luxury. After some fierce bargaining, we got a private bungalow with an outdoor shower set a few feet from the water. PalmGrove. I highly recommend it. I spent the day in a hammock under the coconut trees sipping fresh lime soda and dozing. After that nap, I joined Javed in a small boat docked on the edge of the water. What could be more peaceful than being rocked to sleep by the gentle laps of the water?

We then drove to Allepy to visit his friends super star resort on the beach. For those of you looking for a personalized vacation in a traditional bungalow this is it. It was restored with gorgeous arched wood doors and furnished with Kerala carved furniture. Sublime! We had tea looking over the ocean on one side and the other, a cricket field. And the only lighthouse I've ever seen that is set inland from the sea. What good could that do in time of need? JUst one of those India things. The second class train rolled by and I remarked that guests at Raheem's bungalow could even experience train travel. I remembered my own trip last year on that second class train. Definitely an experience to have. And not one these guests would have.

I then went to a silk saree house to puruse the yards and yards of luscious silks in colors that make you drool and embrodery to shake the soul. I returned the next morning to find a group of women looking through wedding sarees. Well, this is what I had wanted to see!! Everything is kept behind the counter and you have to artfully describe what you want in order for the guy to bring you items to see. Not the best system for someone like myself who is a slow browser and never knows what she wants til she sees it. A girl can get lost in the lengths of silks spread on the counter before her.

We returned to our bungalow for a yummy Kerala meal with the grand finale of ripe melt-in-your-mouth pineapple, a shower under the stars and a night of soft sleep under a pink net.

There are only a few days left.

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